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Paris — 6th arrondissement / Saint-Germain
#169 in Paris • Gault & Millau listed • Auvergne / Contemporary French

ANICIA

A Michelin-starred chef cooking his native Auvergne for bistro money, and the Caviar du Velay proves it. Book it for a value-minded first date.

François Gagnaire Auvergne Table Caviar du Velay Birthday First Date Impress Clients
ANICIA Paris — 6th arrondissement / Saint-Germain dining room
Photo via Anicia, table nature par François Gagnaire · Google

About Anicia

François Gagnaire named this place for the Latin root of the Le Puy green lentil, and that tells you what it is: an Auvergne table in central Paris, at 97 Rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th. Gagnaire trained under Alain Chapel and, separately, Pierre Gagnaire — no relation — and won a Michelin star in 2006 at his own restaurant in Le Puy-en-Velay before opening Anicia here in 2015. He brings produce up from the Auvergne, and the cooking is rooted in that terroir rather than in Parisian fashion. It is bistronomie in the truest sense: star-trained technique at bistro prices.

The Kitchen

The dish that explains the kitchen is the Caviar du Velay, €18 — and it is a real piece of craft, not a pun. Gagnaire takes the Le Puy green lentil, an AOP product grown in the volcanic soil of the Velay and prized for holding its shape and skin, and dresses it like caviar: spread over blinis made from lentil flour, crowned with a mascarpone cream of crab, yuzu and ginger, and bound with a shellfish jelly. The lentil's firm skin and earthy sweetness stand in for the pop and salinity of roe, and the citrus lifts it. The rest of the menu moves with what Gagnaire hauls up from the Auvergne, and the format is honest: €35 for a three-course lunch (€29 for two), €55 for a five-course dinner tasting. For a chef who has held a Michelin star, those are bistro numbers, and the technique on the plate is well above them.

The Room

A warm, low-key contemporary bistro on the Rue du Cherche-Midi, near Poilâne and the 6th's best food shopping. Wood, soft light, tables close enough to feel lively but not cramped, a conversational noise level. It reads as a neighbourhood restaurant rather than an occasion room, which is part of its charm. Dress is smart-casual; book a couple of weeks ahead for dinner.

Best for a First Date

Book Anicia for a first date where you want to eat well without the bill becoming the story: the room is intimate and easy to talk in, the Caviar du Velay is a genuine conversation piece, and the €55 dinner tasting buys a serious, star-trained meal for the price of an ordinary one. Walk it off afterward toward Poilâne and Saint-Germain.

Not For

Skip Anicia if you want grand Parisian fine-dining theatre — there is no tasting-menu spectacle, no marble-and-silver formality, no starred-restaurant hush. It is a small, ingredient-driven Auvergne bistro; come for the cooking and the value, not for an event.

Frequently Asked

Is Anicia worth it?

Yes, especially for the value. François Gagnaire earned a Michelin star in 2006 at his Le Puy-en-Velay restaurant, and at Anicia he cooks at that level for a €35 lunch and €55 dinner tasting. The food is Auvergne-rooted and ingredient-driven rather than showy. For star-trained cooking at bistro prices in the 6th, it is one of the smarter bookings in Paris.

What should you order at Anicia?

The Caviar du Velay (€18), the signature: Le Puy green lentils presented like caviar, on lentil-flour blinis with a mascarpone cream of crab, yuzu and ginger and a shellfish jelly. Beyond it, follow the menu, which changes with what Gagnaire brings up from the Auvergne. The €55 five-course dinner is the way to see the kitchen properly.

Who is the chef at Anicia?

François Gagnaire, who is not related to Pierre Gagnaire though he trained in his kitchen, as well as Alain Chapel's. He won a Michelin star in 2006 at his restaurant in Le Puy-en-Velay before opening Anicia in Paris in 2015 to cook the food of his native Auvergne. The restaurant is named for the Latin root of the Le Puy lentil.

How much does Anicia cost?

Lunch is €35 for three courses (€29 for two), and dinner is a €55 five-course tasting menu. The signature Caviar du Velay is €18 à la carte. It sits in the 6th arrondissement at 97 Rue du Cherche-Midi, and the prices are well below what a Michelin-trained kitchen of this calibre usually charges in central Paris.

Also in Paris

Explore the full Paris restaurant guide, or compare other 6th-arrondissement classics like Joséphine Chez Dumonet. See our First Date, Birthday, and Impress Clients guides for more Paris picks.

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