About Du Pain et des Idées
Christophe Vasseur left a career in fashion to open this bakery at 34 Rue Yves Toudic, near the Canal Saint-Martin, in 2002 — and in 2008 Gault & Millau named him the best baker in Paris. He did it by going backwards: long natural fermentation, old French wheat varieties bought straight from farmers, and almost none of the shortcuts modern bakeries take. The shop itself is a protected 19th-century interior, painted-glass ceiling and beveled mirrors. It is a takeaway counter, not a café, and there is usually a queue out the door.
The Kitchen
The loaf to judge Vasseur on is the Pain des Amis: a slow-fermented sharing bread with a thick, dark, almost burnished crust and a dense, faintly tangy crumb, sold by the chunk for around €4. The whole point is the time — a long fermentation develops the flavour and acidity that fast, yeast-heavy dough never gets, and it is also what lets the bread keep for days instead of going stale by evening. The cult pastry is the escargot, a snail-coiled pastry whose pistachio-chocolate version (€2.50) is the one people queue for, with seasonal fillings rotating through the year. The croissant (€1.70) is laminated with good butter and baked dark, the way a croissant should be. There is no fancy plating here; the craft is entirely in the dough and the fermentation, which is exactly where it should be.
The Room
There is no dining room — this is a small, beautiful shop you walk into, queue in, and leave. The 19th-century fittings, the painted-glass ceiling and the smell of baking bread are the whole atmosphere, and they are considerable. It is a weekday operation, closed at weekends, which catches out a lot of visitors. Come earlier in the day; the best things sell out.
Best for a First Date
This is the morning version of a first date: buy a Pain des Amis and an escargot, walk two minutes to the Canal Saint-Martin, and sit on the edge. It costs a few euros, it is low-pressure, and the bread is good enough to be the whole conversation. It is also the ideal stop for a solo morning in the 10th.
Not For
Skip it if you want to sit down and be served — there is no café, no seating, no table service, and it is closed at weekends. It is a takeaway bakery with a queue; buy your bread and eat it elsewhere.
Frequently Asked
Is Du Pain et des Idées worth it?
Yes, and it costs almost nothing to find out. Christophe Vasseur was named the best baker in Paris by Gault & Millau in 2008, and his slow-fermented bread and pastry are among the finest in the city. A pistachio-chocolate escargot is €2.50 and a croissant €1.70, so the only cost is the walk to the 10th and the queue.
What should you order at Du Pain et des Idées?
The Pain des Amis, the slow-fermented sharing loaf with a thick, dark crust and a dense, aromatic crumb, sold by the chunk for around €4. Then the pistachio-chocolate escargot (€2.50), the cult pastry, and a croissant (€1.70). Vasseur's long fermentation is the reason the bread keeps and tastes the way it does.
Who is the baker at Du Pain et des Idées?
Christophe Vasseur, who left a career in fashion to open the bakery at 34 Rue Yves Toudic in 2002. He champions long natural fermentation and old French wheat varieties bought directly from farmers, and Gault & Millau named him the best baker in Paris in 2008. The shop's 19th-century painted-glass interior is protected.
When is Du Pain et des Idées open?
It is a weekday bakery, closed at weekends, so plan around that — it is one of the few quirks of visiting. There are no reservations; you queue at the counter at 34 Rue Yves Toudic near the Canal Saint-Martin. Come earlier in the day for the fullest selection, as popular items sell out.
Also in Paris
Explore the full Paris restaurant guide, or compare other Paris classics like the salon de thé Angelina. See our First Date, Solo Dining, and Birthday guides for more Paris picks.