The Verdict
Luigi Ceccarelli — "Giggetto" — and his wife Ines bought an old osteria on the Via del Portico d'Ottavia in 1923, and Ines started frying whole artichokes on a street stove. Three generations later, grandson Claudio Ceccarelli still runs it, and the carciofi alla giudia is still the thing every tour group photographs. Here is the contrarian truth: that artichoke is good but not infallible. Diners report it lands crisp one night and dry the next. Order it anyway — you came for it — but do not pretend it is why this place has lasted a hundred years.
What has lasted is the rest of the Roman-Jewish and Roman repertoire, cooked without ceremony. The cervello fritto — fried lamb brains — is the dish regulars order on repeat. The oxtail alla vaccinara is stewed soft and deep; the bucatini all'amatriciana arrives generous and unfussy, and the table usually votes the spaghetti carbonara the best plate of the night. This is offal-and-pasta cooking that predates the neighbourhood's fame, and it is more honest than the artichoke's Instagram career suggests.
The setting does the heavy lifting the kitchen does not need to: tables spill out beside the ancient columns of the Porticus Octaviae, the second-century ruin that frames the Ghetto. And the bill is the quiet argument. One diner clocked about €30 for two plates and an espresso in 2024 — central-Rome money that, in a neighbourhood built for fleecing tourists, counts as fair. Giggetto could coast on its address and its age. It charges trattoria prices instead.
Best for a Birthday or a Long Roman Lunch
Book the outdoor tables by the Porticus Octaviae for a birthday or a no-agenda group lunch: the format is sharing-friendly, the kitchen will happily send a parade of fried things and stewed offal, and the century-old room carries its own occasion without anyone trying. Reserve ahead for the terrace and aim for an early-evening sitting before the tour groups peak. For a more refined Roman room, Armando al Pantheon runs tighter; for a wine-led evening, Roscioli is the move.
Skip it if you want a quiet, intimate dinner — Giggetto is big, loud and tourist-heavy, and the artichoke you came to photograph may arrive dry. And skip the fillet steak: it comes with salad, not potatoes.
Frequently Asked
Is Giggetto worth it?
Yes, with one caveat: come for the institution and the offal, not only the famous artichoke. Giggetto has fried carciofi alla giudia since 1923, and the carciofo is good though it varies by day. The reliable wins are the cervello fritto, the oxtail vaccinara and the bucatini all'amatriciana. At roughly €30 for two plates and a coffee in central Rome, the value holds where the neighbourhood could easily gouge.
What should I order at Giggetto?
Start with the carciofi alla giudia because you came for it, then order what the locals order: cervello fritto, oxtail alla vaccinara, and either the bucatini all'amatriciana or the carbonara — the table usually votes carbonara best. The fritto misto and fettuccine con funghi porcini are safe too. Skip the fillet steak unless you want salad instead of potatoes.
Do you need a reservation?
Book ahead, especially for an outdoor table by the columns and on weekends. Giggetto is large, busy and popular with Romans and tourists alike, and the terrace beside the Porticus Octaviae goes first. It serves lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday and closes Monday. A little spoken Italian and a booking both go a long way. Browse the full Rome dining guide for more.