Perbellini's pupils cook his millefoglie and a black-truffle maccheroni two streets from the Arena for €59. Book it before the opera.
About Locanda 4 Cuochi
Locanda 4 Cuochi opened in January 2012, two streets behind the Arena at Via Alberto Mario 12 in central Verona. The name means four cooks, and the founders earned it: Giancarlo Perbellini, who holds two Michelin stars across town, set it up with three of his brigade. Two of them, Moreno Pellegrini and Dario Fracasso, still run the kitchen.
This is the cheap seat at the Perbellini table, and it is the better-value one. The Michelin Guide lists it, the cooking is contemporary Italian without the tasting-menu solemnity, and the bill is honest: roughly €40 to €50 a head à la carte, €59 for the set menu.
The Kitchen
The signatures hold from year to year. Beef tartare with the classic garnish. Homemade maccheroni with black truffle, Parmesan and a mushroom broth, which is the dish to order if you order one thing. Saffron risotto with shrimp turns up when the market allows.
Dessert is the millefoglie Perbellini made famous, layers of puff pastry and cream sent down from the master's repertoire. Pellegrini and Fracasso plate it straight. They trained under him, they have not tried to improve on it, and they are right not to.
The Room
The room is small, lively and informal. Tables, plus a handful of stools at a counter looking into the kitchen. Service knows the menu and steers you without fuss, dietary needs included.
It works for a relaxed dinner for two or a quick, serious lunch. During the Arena's summer opera season the street fills and the tables go early. Book.
Not for
Not for a hushed, formal tasting room or a cheap pizza. This is a busy counter-and-tables trattoria, and at peak it is loud. If you want silence and ceremony, walk to Casa Perbellini instead.
Frequently Asked
What is Locanda 4 Cuochi known for?
It is a contemporary Italian restaurant behind Verona's Arena, listed in the Michelin Guide. Signatures include beef tartare, homemade maccheroni with black truffle and Parmesan, and a millefoglie dessert in the style of Giancarlo Perbellini.
Where is it?
At Via Alberto Mario 12, a few steps behind the Arena in central Verona, Italy.
Who runs the kitchen?
Resident chefs Moreno Pellegrini and Dario Fracasso, both from Giancarlo Perbellini's brigade, run the kitchen day to day. They founded the Locanda in January 2012 with Perbellini and Andrea Manzoli. The name means four cooks, and it is literal.
What should I order?
Start with the beef tartare, make the black-truffle maccheroni the centre of the meal, and finish with the Perbellini-style millefoglie. À la carte runs about €40 to €50 a head and the set menu is €59. The rest of the card changes with the season and the market.
Do I need to book?
Booking is advised, especially during the Arena's summer opera season, when central Verona is busiest.
Reserve a Table
Reserve at Locanda 4 Cuochi
Book ahead during the Arena's opera season. Find Locanda 4 Cuochi at Via Alberto Mario 12, central Verona.
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Practical Information
AddressVia Alberto Mario 12, Verona
NeighbourhoodBehind the Arena
CuisineContemporary Italian
Opened2012
LineageChefs trained under Giancarlo Perbellini
SignatureBlack-truffle maccheroni; beef tartare
RecognitionMichelin Guide listed
