Raoul's
Serge and Guy Raoul opened a narrow French bistro at 180 Prince Street in 1975, hung the walls with art, put a tarot reader in the back, and never really changed the formula. Fifty years on, Raoul's is the strongest argument New York makes that the best French restaurant in a city need not be in France.
The Room
Raoul's is two narrow rooms stitched together by a zinc bar, with a spiral staircase climbing to a skylit garden room at the back and art crowding every inch of wall. The light is low, the tables are close, and the noise is the warm, French kind that makes a table feel private rather than exposed.
On weekend nights a tarot reader still works the back room — a piece of 1970s SoHo that the neighbourhood otherwise lost decades ago. It is a room with a memory, run for fifty years by the same family rather than a hospitality group.
The Steak au Poivre
The dish that anchors the menu is the steak au poivre: a filet in a green-peppercorn cognac cream sauce with a heap of frites, priced around $59 and ordered at nearly every table. The kitchen has run it essentially unchanged for decades, which is the point — it is a benchmark, not a special.
Order it once to understand the restaurant. The sauce is the test, and Raoul's has been passing it since the Ford administration.
The Secret Burger
Then there is the burger. Served only at the bar, in a strictly limited number each night — around a dozen — it is an off-menu cult object: a dry-aged blend, cornichon, a price that undercuts the steak, and a scarcity that has made it one of the most chased bar orders in the city.
If you want it, get to the bar early and ask. When they are gone, they are gone.
French Outside France
The case for Raoul's as French dining outside France is really a case about preservation. The long, late, unhurried bistro dinner — escargot, steak frites, a carafe and no rush to turn the table — survives more faithfully here than in much of a modernised Paris. It sits in a small New York fraternity of French rooms worth the trip: Keith McNally's Balthazar a few blocks east, the more ambitious Le Coucou, the Tribeca natural-wine bistro Frenchette, and the burger rival across the park at Minetta Tavern.
What separates Raoul's is that it never reinvented itself. The others arrived to make a point; Raoul's just kept the lights low and the sauce the same.
How to Book Raoul's
Raoul's takes reservations on Resy, with tables opening about 28 days out and the prime weekend slots going fast. The bar is the move for walk-ins, for a late seating, and for the burger — it is first-come, and the kitchen runs the night long. For the venue's full details, see the Raoul's profile in our New York guide.
It reads best after 9pm, when the room settles into the version of itself it has been for fifty years.
Frequently Asked Questions
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