White linen, low light, and the hush of a room built for the long evening: Il Bacaro has held the centre of Melbourne's Italian dining for years from 168–170 Little Collins Street. Executive chef David Dellai cooks Venetian, plainly and precisely, and the kitchen carries a Chef Hat in the Australian Good Food Guide. The light flatters without straining, the acoustics let you talk across the table, and the service keeps exact pace with the plates.
The Kitchen
Dellai's cooking is Venetian at heart and seasonal by habit. His signature is the stinging-nettle quadretti — small pasta squares with braised wagyu beef cheek, baby carrots and parmigiano reggiano — a dish that tastes of patience. The menu turns with the market, so the supporting cast shifts, but the handmade pasta and the white-linen precision hold. Starters run $33–35 and mains $48–56, which puts a full dinner around $90–120 a head before wine.
The wine list runs deeper than Melbourne's reputation suggests, built alongside the menu rather than bolted on. Most bottles sit under $120, with a few statement labels for the table that wants to climb, and the sommelier translates between the kitchen and the glass without fuss.
Practical Info
What to Order
The hero plate under executive chef David Dellai is the suckling pig with carrot, blood lime and Geraldton wax (AUD 56); order it. The ricotta and smoked-tomato agnolotti with veal ragù and stracciatella (AUD 48) is the pasta to get, and the burrata di bufala with artichoke, broad bean and mint salsa verde (AUD 33) is the right opener. The venison tartare with egg yolk, blackberry and nori (AUD 33) over-delivers even for the venison-shy. Skip the scampi bisque with finger lime (AUD 35) unless you want a broth course; it is competent but the weakest of the starters. For dessert, the agave-nectar cheesecake (AUD 26) beats the chocolate fondant tart (AUD 25). If you would rather not choose, the two-course set menu runs AUD 99 and the three-course AUD 120. Two people ordering à la carte across three courses land near AUD 110 a head before the deep, Italian-led wine list, where most bottles sit under AUD 120.
Best for an Anniversary
Book Il Bacaro for an anniversary because the room is built for two people and a long evening. The light is warm, the linen is white, and the booths are spaced for a private conversation rather than an audience. Tell the host you are celebrating and they will quietly find the corner banquette or the booth furthest from the kitchen. The handmade pasta and a bottle from the cellar do the rest; it also carries a deal dinner with the same composure.
Not for a noisy group night or a casual drop-in — Il Bacaro is a white-linen room with mains around $50, built for an unhurried, dressed-up dinner rather than a quick, loud one.
How to Book and What to Expect
Reservations at Il Bacaro are best made 2–4 weeks ahead for weekend evenings, and 3–7 days ahead for weeknight slots. The restaurant accepts cancellations up to 24 hours before the booking; later cancellations may incur a per-person fee. Dress code is smart-casual at minimum — a jacket reads correctly even where it's not required, and trainers are accepted only at the bar. Allergens and dietary requirements should be noted at booking; the kitchen accommodates most modifications with 48 hours' notice.
For the diner planning a special occasion — an anniversary, a proposal, a milestone — let the host know at booking. Il Bacaro will quietly upgrade the table when possible (corner banquette, window seat, or the booth furthest from the kitchen), and small acknowledgements like a chocolate plate or signed menu can be arranged with advance notice. The phrase "we are celebrating something" is understood and welcomed.
Common Questions
Is Il Bacaro worth it?
Yes, for an evening you want to feel like an occasion. David Dellai's Chef-Hatted Venetian cooking — the stinging-nettle quadretti with wagyu cheek above all — justifies the white linen and the $90–120-a-head spend, and the wine list rewards a long sit. Come for an anniversary or a considered dinner rather than a quick bite.
How hard is it to book Il Bacaro?
Plan ahead. Weekend evenings are best booked two to four weeks out, and weeknights three to seven days ahead. Reserve online or by phone, note any dietary needs at the time, and if you are marking an occasion, say so when you book so the room can hold a quieter table for you.
What is the dress code at Il Bacaro?
Smart-casual at a minimum, and the white-linen room rewards dressing up a little. A jacket reads correctly even though it is not required, and trainers are accepted only at the bar. Dress as you would for a handsome anniversary dinner and you will fit the room.
How much does dinner at Il Bacaro cost?
Starters run about $33–35 and mains $48–56, so a two-course dinner with a glass of wine lands around $90–120 a head, more across a bottle. Most wines sit under $120. It is mid-range for the calibre of cooking and the white-tablecloth service.