Cochon

The brick warehouse on Tchoupitoulas runs loud and warm, with an open kitchen along one wall and the smell of the wood-fired oven reaching the door. Tables sit close, the floor moves fast, and the volume rises with the room as the night goes on. Donald Link opened Cochon here in 2006 with Stephen Stryjewski, who still cooks the Cajun food of his and Link's Louisiana grandparents. There is nothing precious about it; the pleasure is in the cooking and the noise, not the hush.

The signatures are the ones regulars order without looking: wood-fired oysters, fried boudin with pickled peppers, and the namesake Louisiana cochon with turnips, cabbage and cracklins. The rabbit and dumplings comes from Link's great-grandmother. Most plates land between $9 and $34, which is the rare luxury room you can feed a table at without flinching. Stryjewski won the James Beard Best Chef: South award in 2011; Cochon was a Best New Restaurant finalist in 2007.

Book this room for a team dinner because everything about it favours a table that wants to eat and talk. The food is built to share, the noise floor carries a big group without anyone shouting, and the bill stays sane at this price. Order family-style and pass the oysters and the cochon down the table; reserve well ahead through Resy and ask for one of the larger tables along the warehouse wall. For a solo night, the bar takes walk-ins and is one of the better seats in the city.

Is Cochon worth it?

Yes, if you want serious Cajun cooking in a loud, warm room. Donald Link opened Cochon in 2006 with Stephen Stryjewski, who won the James Beard Best Chef: South award in 2011; the restaurant was a Best New Restaurant finalist in 2007. Plates run roughly $9 to $34, so it stays gloriously unfussy. Go hungry and order to share.

What should I order at Cochon?

Start with the wood-fired oysters and the fried boudin with pickled peppers, then the namesake Louisiana cochon with turnips, cabbage and cracklins. The rabbit and dumplings is a great-grandmother's recipe and one of the best things on the menu. Most plates fall between $9 and $34. Finish with whatever pie is on that day.

How hard is it to book Cochon?

Book through Resy a couple of weeks out for a weekend dinner; weeknights are easier. Cochon takes walk-ins at the bar, which is the move for solo diners or a last-minute pair. For a group or a team dinner, reserve well ahead and ask for one of the larger tables along the warehouse wall.

Is Cochon good for a team dinner?

Yes, it is one of the best team-dinner rooms in New Orleans. The food is built to share, the volume carries a big table without anyone shouting, and the price keeps a group bill reasonable. Order family-style and pass the oysters and cochon down the table. For a quiet, intimate two-top, choose a calmer room.